Roadtrippin' Europe

I know I've said this before, but you know what's great about living in Europe? Easy weekend trips to other countries. If I drove 6 hours from Denver, I would be in Oklahoma, New Mexico, Wyoming, or maybe still Colorado, depending on which direction I went. But if I drove 6 hours from Prague, I would be in the beautiful and amazing Austrian Alps!

Two weeks ago, Jason and I along with our wonderful friends, Brandon & Sarah, took a little drive to Innsbruck, Austria. We rented a tiny little "Thalia" car that was just big enough to fit the 4 of us and our bags, as long as we didn't move once we sat down. The drive to Innsbruck was easy, the only hard part was finding our way out of Prague! Our rental came with a GPS (TomTom), but unfortunately Mr. TomTom hadn't been updated in probably a couple of years. So there were several times along the way when TomTom thought we were driving through trees, when really we were on a major highway. But, we made it work. We drove out of Prague, through Pilsn, past Munich and down to Innsbruck. Pretty easy, really.

We arrived about 6pm on Friday to the small town of Hall, which is

pretty much connected to Innsbruck, but still holds that small town charm and appeal. Hall has several beautiful cathedrals, a little castle, narrow cobblestone roads, and is pushed right up against the soaring, snow covered, shiningly beautiful Alps. It's amazing. I have to say that before moving to Prague I didn't hold too much of an interest in Austria, but now I would count it as one of my favorite countries I've ever visited.

In Hall, we Couch Surfed with a wonderful woman named Barbara, and her boyfriend, Hans.

SIDE NOTE: Couch Surfing is a program that connects travelers with local hosts who graciously open their homes to strangers and let them crash on their couch, or spare bedroom, or whatever they have available. It's a genius idea, all based of trust and honesty, and a great way to meet locals and save some money while you're at it. This is only our second time using it- first was in Bratislava- but it's a great program and I look forward to getting more involved with it in the future. Check it out here.

So anyway, Barbara was an amazing host. She has a beautiful, spacious flat in the heart of the old town of Hall. In fact, her flat is so big that Jason and I had our own bedroom and so did Brandon & Sarah. Perfect! Barbara helped us with advice on the best places to ski, and without her great suggestions we probably would have wound up on a little bunny hill or something. That evening Barbara made us a delicious dinner and broke out bottles of wine and beer along with some great conversation. It was even better than if we were to stay at a hotel.

After a good night's rest (minus the church bells which woke us up every hour, on the

hour), we got up early Saturday morning and headed for the slopes. Barbara advised us to go to a nearby mountain called "Schlick 2000", which really just sounded like the name of a razor to us. But anyway, it was the 50th anniversary of the mountain on that day, so we were able to get full day passes for only 19 euros! Sweet deal! The ski area was up so high and over a hill that you couldn't actually see any of the slopes from the parking lot. We took a gondola for what seemed like forever, until we finally reached the top of the mountain. The area wasn't too big, but it had stunning views of rock cliffs and white blankets of snow on the surrounding mountains. The weather was pretty nice, we got a little bit of good sun throughout the day, and we had a great day boarding.

By the time the end of the day rolled around, we were all pretty exhausted, but headed back to Barbara's for some showers and to get ready to head out for dinner. Barbara took us up to a really great, authentic little restaurant on a big hill overlooking all of Innsbruck. And from wonderful Facebook, I had learned that someone I grew up with and haven't seen since we graduated high school (Steve) just happened to be in Innsbruck at the same time as us. Coincidence! So Steve and his friend, also named Steve, came to join us for dinner on Saturday night. It was fun to catch up since we haven't seen each other in oh so long.

The restaurant was great, even though the only non-pork options on the menu were: fried cheese, spinach dumplings, or apricot sugar dumplings. The spinach dumplings I got were tasty, but they sat in my stomach like a rock. I don't know how these people eat this heavy food all the time!

Sunday we had another great day of boarding on a different mountain with clear blue beautiful skies. We went all the way to the top (they had a single chair lift... I've never seen a chair for just one person!) and got stunning views of the surrounding Alps. Absolutely beautiful.

The Roman Holiday

I can't even begin to explain how great it is to be able to decide you want to go to Rome the following weekend. And then just go. Ahh, the advantages of living in Europe.

So we began talking sometime in January about what we would do for Jason’s upcoming birthday (Feb 12). We came up with a few ideas and were leaning towards a giant, indoor water park/spa/beach called “Tropical Paradise” in Germany, thanks to a recommendation by one of my students. Going to a place where we could literally camp on the beach in the middle of a snowstorm did sound pretty appealing, but then we remembered that we’re in Europe and there are a lot of amazing destinations only an hour away. So we looked into flights and settled on Rome. I had been there about 10 years ago and Jason 9 years ago, so we were both excited to go back and see it again after so long.

We left Friday morning and arrived at our little B&B next to the Vatican by about 3:00 pm. When the owner of the B&B saw in Jason’s passport that it was his birthday, he gifted us a bottle of champagne. Nice! We couldn’t think of a better way to start our sight seeing around Rome. We poured ourselves (and the owner) a couple glasses plus one for the road and headed out on the town.

First stop was the Spanish Steps, which looked beautiful in the late afternoon sun. I tried to recreate a picture of me from 10 years ago on the Spanish Steps (in which I was trying to recreate the famous scene of Audrey Hepburn in the same spot). We headed on to the Pantheon and were amazed by the perfect semi-circle ceiling.

After some wandering around and looking for some recommended restaurants and gelato places from friends, we visited the Trevi Fountain, along with every other visitor in Rome, to throw a coin over our shoulder and take a cute couple pic. By that point it was getting late and we were starting to get cold in the night air, so we made our way to a little tratoria that looked appealing and ordered some wine and pasta. Great food, great wine, and great atmosphere. Perfect for a birthday dinner. Later, we wandered back to our neighborhood and found a (disappointing) gelato place for dessert.

Saturday morning we woke up early and headed over to the Vatican, where we spent most of the day. We heard horror stories about the 2+ hour wait to get into the Vatican Museums, so we were pleasantly surprised when we only had to wait about 5 minutes. We meandered through all of the museums and sat in awe gazing at the Sistine Chapel. It’s just as beautiful as I remember it! We walked around St. Peter’s Cathedral and visited in the catacombs, including the tomb of the late Pope John Paul.

That evening was Jason’s special birthday present. Being the big soccer fan that he is, he of course decided to check the schedule for AS Roma as soon as we started to plan our trip. He was very pleased to find that they had a game scheduled for Saturday evening against Palermo, a team from Sicily. We headed to the old Olympic Stadium and sat with the fans and cheered on Roma to their 4-1 win over Palermo. It was a great game, but I was absolutely frozen by the end. Our goal (haha.) for that night was to find a very local restaurant for dinner, where we would hopefully be the only tourists around and have a chance to eat the ‘real’ Italian food. We decided that the area around the stadium was sufficiently un-touristy, and found a really great little restaurant where we were indeed, the only foreigners. More great food, great wine, great atmosphere.

We spent Sunday (Valentine’s Day) walking all around the entire city and saw an incredible amount of famous sites: from the St. Angelo Castle, Vittorio Emanuelle Monument, Colusseum, Roman Forum, famous piazzas, etc. Jason gave me a beautiful rose on the Spanish Steps for Valentine’s Day, which I carried around all day long. We ate a tasty lunch, wine included, sitting outside in the beautiful weather of the Piazza Navona. For dinner we found an even less touristy, more delicious restaurant, just around the corner from our hotel. I got exactly what I had been craving our whole time in Italy: frutti del mar pasta and an artichoke (in CZ, artichokes only exist on pizzas). Bellisimo!

Monday, our final morning in Rome, before heading right back to Prague and back to work, we returned to the Vatican one last time. Before this trip, we didn’t even know that it was possible to go up on the roof on St. Peter’s and all the way up to the top of the Cupola. We went up at about 8:30 AM and were fortunate to be virtually alone atop the giant cathedral. The views were incredible, although a little smoggy, and looking out across the city from on high was the perfect way to end the beautiful mini vacation. I can think of nothing better…

Rome pictures posted here.

Area Goes to Marrakech, Morocco: Part 3

And finally, the third installment of my writing piece on Marrakech for Area Daily:

ROCKING THE KASBAH

Marrakech is always spicy and packed full of treasures just begging to be found. Half of the fun is exploring the maze of alleyways and finding what lies around each bend.

Get lost in the souks and make a few unforgettable purchases while you’re at it. You'll find everything from live chameleons to colorful babouche slippers and gorgeous pottery. But keep your guard up: the salesmen are so good they will make you believe you really do need that 50 foot handcrafted rug.

Make your way to the new town for a visit to Jardin Majorelle. The vivid gardens are so enchanting that even famed fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent couldn’t resist them. He bought the gardens to gift them to the city and had his ashes scattered here after his death in 2008.

If you’re a wiz in the kitchen, don’t miss out on the opportunity to learn the secrets of the trade from a true master. La Maison Arabe arranges private cooking courses with resident chefs where you will create your very own Moroccan specialties.

No visit to Morocco is complete without a camel ride in the desert. Take a day trip to La Palmeraie, a palm filled oasis 20 minutes outside the city, and seek out one of the many local camel trainers. If you have time to spare, make the trek out to the wild sand dunes of the Sahara for a 3+ day trip and sleep among the stars. The desert is a good 10 hour drive away, but the Kasbahs, gorges and oases that dot the Atlas Mountain trail along the way are well worth it. Contact Adventures with Ali for your own tailored desert excursion.

Area Goes to Marrakech, Morocco: Part 2

Here is the second installment on my Marrakech story for Area Daily. Amazing Moroccan food. Yum!

MOROCCAN DELIGHTS

If flavorful spices, mouth watering citrus, and meat that is so tender it falls off the bone is your thing, then Marrakech will be your culinary paradise. While Morocco has a few staple dishes that you can find in most restaurants around the city, you will quickly learn that not all tajines are created equal.

The all female run Al Fassia is sure to impress even the most experienced foodies. The tasty lunch menu is perfect before a trip to the nearby Jardins Majorelle. Try the Moroccan Salad starter for an amazing presentation spreading over 12 dishes, or the Lamb Shoulder main for melt in your mouth divinity.

Don’t miss out on dining in one of the many pop-up restaurants of Djemma el Fna (main square) at least once. Take your pick of restaurants and feast alongside tourists and locals alike on succulent chicken and lamb kebabs, steaming tajines and citrus fried fish. Feeling adventurous? Check out the snail soup stands.

Visit the ever-fashionable Café Arabe for Moroccan-Italian fusion cuisine in a relaxed setting. Enjoy cocktails on the rooftop terrace for wonderful creations with the best views in town.

Some of the best meals in Marrakech can be found right in the comfort of your riad, most notably Dar Darma. Be waited on hand and foot in this private dining experience with a nightly menu of traditional Moroccan dishes. Sip a glass of wine by the fire or move up to the terrace to star gaze over dinner.

Area Goes to Marrakech, Morocco: Part 1

My second piece for Area Daily has come out this week! This is a 3 part story on Marrakech, Morocco, which I researched when we traveled there over Christmas. Check out the beautiful, amazing hotels that I had the great pleasure of staying at in Marrakech.

MOORISEAMS

MOORISH DREAMS

This week Area informant, Elena Sprick, explores the hidden gems and tasty tajines of the winding alleyways of Marrakech, Morocco.

First up, check out the elegant and private riads – Moroccan style houses – that are concealed behind indescript doors in the smallest of alleys. Escape the hustle and bustle of the outside world and relax in the peace and comfort of one of these stylish homes.

Be warned: after a visit to Dar Seven you may find it difficult to settle back into regular life. This sophisticated riad has an unsurpassed air of exclusivity and privacy. Relax in the courtyard sipping a mint tea, as the only sound you hear is chirping of birds. Close your eyes for too long and you will start dreaming of ways to turn this paradise fantasy into a permanent reality.

The eclectic style of Dar Darma will have you wondering what hides behind every door. Each suite and apartment is decorated in a unique style with original pieces from around the world. When you get tired of walking laps around the city, the rooftop pool is the perfect spot to chill out.

Senses on overload? Steal away from the madness of the medina and head for quieter pastures. Relax poolside at the eco-friendly Dar Zarraba, located in the countryside only 15 minutes from the city center. Nestled in a grove of olive trees surrounded by farmlands, Dar Zarraba combines the perfect mix of comfort and country living. Come for the relaxation, stay for the excellent cuisine and private hammam.

And the rooftop Berber tent of Riad Jahan is the ideal location to spend the evening unwinding while listening to the noises of city life below. The unbeatably friendly staff and comfortable rooms make this place a true treasure.